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Question: I have an attchment for my janome machine which enables me to do measured straight lines. I haven't used it for years, and so have forgotten how ! ! It consists of a metal bar about 3 inches long with a right angle prong at the end of it, and 12 years ago it was fantastic for quick quilting diamonds or squares. Have you any ideas please of how I used it?
Question: Have you ever used the Frixion pen and would you consider it safe to use on any fabric that will take the heat? I know we will have to test a sample of it but it seems to go against the grain to heat to remove, after all we use heat to set the Microtex pens! Answer: Bear in mind that these pens were not originally designed for use by quilters - we have adopted them!
I have not used these pens at all but Jennie has and mentions them in one of our videos; her word of caution is that they are re-activated by the cold - this could be through the postal service or through air conditioning.
The rotary cutter means that you dont have to use templates and here are some simple rules that you can apply throughout your patchwork: On the Flying geese fast no-waste method you just need to add 1 1/4" to the finished size you need for the larger square so for 4" you need 5 1/4" and then 7/8 to the size of the smaller square - so again you are right at 2 7/8 and if you want to enjoy the video on this click here: The other magic numbers for rotary cutting are as follows:
For a plain square you add 1/2" so 4" finished becomes 4 1/2" For a half-square triangle we now add 1" - so cut 5", - and once sewn trim back to be an accurate 4 1/2" before sewing
and for quarter-square triangles we add 1 1/4" (as per the flying geese) and pay attention to the seam allowance we sew!
This is such a personal choice it's difficult to answer however there are a few things to think about that might help: Are you left handed? If so be sure that the rotary cutter works for you - most work both both right and left handed people but not all. What about the ruler? Well this should be a companion piece to your board - make sure that the ruler works across your board in both directions (i.e.
Question: Having watched the video for folded Japanese items, can you please inform me where I can buy needle punch wadding. Answer: most good quilt shops should have needlepunched (polyester; however you can always get it from my friends at CreativeQuilting
email: isabelle@creativequilting.co.uk
I believe it is 60" wide
Answer: I guess your question is geared to the uneven edge of your quilt if you are using paper pieces; and there are two ways of looking at this; the first is to leave the edge uneven and add borders to which the uneven paper pieces are appliqued - this will give the look of the patchwork floating.
The other is to make half templates to fit in the gaps so that the paper pieced patchwork then has straight edges - you can also do this and then add borders by machine.
You would then layer, quilt and bind as usual(see our video on layering if that helps) Just a thought about the quilting - most of my students do this stitching a 1/4" away from the seams - and this can be done by hand or by machine
Question: have been trying to find some instructions for a very old 'Sew Easy' Curve and Square ruler. They still seem to be available on line, but I cannot find the instructions anywhere. My originals were on the back of the packet and this got thrown away. Answer: Sew Easy range is distributed by Groves in the UK. There is a helpline number for local stockists etc that you can contact: 01453 883581, or e: crafts@stockistenquiries.co.uk They do have two curve rulers in the range: Curve Ruler NL4196 which is size 13 7/8 x 7 3/8” - it has a curved edge to the left and a straight edge to the right, includes metric and imperial measurements and detailed instructions and illustrations for use.
Your secret pillow video is brilliant and I love it! Please could you show/explain how the front of the quilt looks regarding the seams that are applied to the reverse side to attach the pillow casing? Do the seams show and overlap the existing quilting? Should we try and avoid doubling over the seams? I have made a pale fabric quilt which shows all the stitching very clearly and could look 'overstitched' on the top side if I attach the pillow case (that I now want to apply thanks to your lovely video!) Many thanks!
Question: Hi I'm a new quilter making 12" squares. At which point do I add batting? Is it with the individual square or when it's all joined together ? Answer: There are two ways of doing a quilt - by squares - Quilt as you Go (see Carolyn Forster) or making the whole quilt top - which is my preferred method - see Layer Quilt and Bind in the Block of the Month series First Sampler Quilt
Sometimes sewing machines come with small extension/quilting tables; Velerie's Bernina 1130 did and if you have a Janome with a quilting package then they will too. The table is very useful for keeping the fabric flat and particularly useful when machine quilting. If you don't have one then The Cotton Patch have an efficient and cost effective relationship with a US manufacturer to provide extension tables (in a mixture of sizes) for most machines - older and new. You can contact them at www.cottonpatch.co.uk/?
Our thanks to Shelagh for the following information about watching on her Kindle: I have downloaded dolphin browser from a link on this page ( www.groovypost.com/howto/install-flash-player-kindle-fire-hd/) the page also had a link to download Adobe Flash Player. I have just viewed the tasters on your site successfully. I thought this information might be useful if you need to give advice to others experiencing my initial difficulty.
No it's the even-ness that is important and makes it look nice; want to know more then you should give a few minutes to watching the workshop given by Paula Doyle for heirloom quilting: click here: For larger stitches, and utility quilting then Carolyn Forster has given us a couple of workshops: Amish Waves and Big Stitch UtilityQuilting.
So now thinking of doing a pieced back. Is that a good idea? I have 15 10" squares left. I was going to cut more out of the border and binding fabric I have left.
Problem 1: How do I cut a 10" square with my ruler?!
Problem 2: If I do 5 squares by 8 squares is this big enough for the back...or should I do 6 x 9?
Problem 3: How on earth do I position the back under the front so it lines up?
Or should I scrap this idea!
How do I cut a 10" square with my ruler?! Answer: To cut a 10" square with your ruler (and I assume your board) try:
either 2 rulers to make up the 10" and cut a strip: OR use your square ruler: OR cut a 10" strip using the board to count and then cut across in the opposite direction (as you would smaller squares) but again using the board to count - NB: ALWAYS put your fabric to zero on the board and not to 1" !!